Long story short - original production plans for this fell through big time & I got stuck with the entire project. Covid happened - fucked everything up among a couple of other reasons.  I did not intend on making these entirely myself or The main tank was being subbed out originally and I got stuck with doing all the work. 2022 brought a lot of challenges that required my attention. Few jobs got put on the back burner & this is one of the bigger jobs on that list. I thought I could handle this entirely in a timely manner but I just couldn't with the limited time I had. I stopped accepting work early/mid-year & went ghost to focus on what I needed to. To everyone who originally purchased one of these. I dearly apologize for the wait. I am hopping back onto this project very very soon & will contact every one of you at the time prior to these being shipped so you are aware of a package being sent & to confirm addresses. 

I am in no way fucking any single one of you over. let me make that crystal clear. 

To anyone interested in purchasing one of these -  I have 3 extra evo 7-9 units & 2 dsm units that will be available. when the time comes everything is completed I will change the listing on this page with those available units for sale.

Side note I made an additional revision to the overall design prior to me starting machine work so the black images below are of an older version. 

when I'm finished, I'll be in touch. 

 I always had this vision when I originally designed the v1 setup that I wanted a very unique-looking, Functional setup that featured more machined components that I’ve designed personally in CAD rather than plucking different items from multiple vendors and welding them together to create one item, like the v1 setup. I’ve wanted to detour far away from that & I believe I’ve achieved my vision. I also wanted a product that didn’t just target the racers…

 That brings us to today, with the release of my new & improved design which is fully machined out of a 4.5” solid round bar of 6061 Aluminum.

Key features:

• Full cylindrical design to induce maximum vortex without cavitation issues.
  
  
• The bottom cylindrical cap features x3 -6AN ORB threaded ports ( These can be used for the following -  turbo, wastegate, or heater-core inlet/outlet ports )
  
  
• Inlet size is 2” OD & outlet size is 1.75” OD
  
  
• 3.5" O.D - Roughly holds 3/4 quarts of additional coolant capacity
  
  
• Threaded -20 ORB ( inlet ) TOP port – Designed to allow customers who are currently running a -16AN coolant system the ability for a simple install without changing their setup to -20AN. Having a threaded inlet allows easy Universality for those customers who plan on using hardline & want to use a Wiggins, Vanjen, or Alphaloc style clamp assembly.
  
  
• High-pressure radiator cap ( 28-35 psi )
  
  
• Special Billet radiator top cap ( not pictured )
  
  
• The top cap & main body are bolted together for a zero weld design.
  
  
• -4AN vent hole
  
  
• 3 threaded plugs are included for those who will not be using the bottom ports
  
  
• EMW designed Thermostat housing which utilizes a 160* thermostat ( more information can be found here on this housing -  ( https://eatonmotorworks.com/collections/2g-dsm/products/4g63-billet-thermostat-housing ) This is included within the total cost for a one complete kit 
  
  
• The total installed distance is 8" from the cylinder head towards the passenger side of the vehicle 

Applications:

This specific design that’s pictured will work on every 4g63 minus EVO 4-9’s. The design is the same for the Evo's just in reverse orientation  

The benefits of a swirl pot

 A Swirl pot is also most commonly known as a “Vortex Generator” it’s a simple design that induces a Vortex inside the capsule. That vortex centralizes any air pockets that are created from both the Cylinder head & Engine block and releases that pressure through the pressure cap into an external expansion tank that’s also known as an overflow reservoir.

 You are probably asking yourself “how are air pockets created from the cylinder head when you bleed the system free of air after you fill the coolant system”

 As the coolant flows through an engine, it flows through roughcasting and small orifices that cause hot spots, these hotspots cause the water/coolant to vaporize thus causing small steam bubbles.

 These Steam bubbles on a factory coolant system in the high-performance world can cause extreme overheating issues. In most cases the way the factory system is designed, these bubbles have no way of being removed and simply get recycled through the coolant system. This isn’t okay, as you are now losing cooling efficiency. 

 Now, you have a heavily modified car and you are data logging coolant temp. Under heavy load conditions or track conditions, you will notice erratic coolant temperature. That erratic coolant temperature you are seeing is actually cavitation passing by your coolant temp sensor “steamed air pocket “.

 In small cases of cavitation you can see a rise in temperature by 10-15* then immediately drop back down to “normal” temp. In extreme conditions, the temperature can rise 20* + which can induce cylinder detonation - loss of power and the most fatal case… Engine failure.

 Let’s talk about pressure caps:

 The factory coolant systems come with a 12-13lb pressure cap. For a stock application that is fine. When you start modifying the setup heavily, that’s when it becomes an issue, however. In racing applications, especially road racing. It’s very common to see pressure caps in the 25-35 psi range. If you are not familiar with how a radiator cap works there is tons of information out there that can be easily searched, there’s a brief description below for this application since we are on this topic.

 Water at absolute pressure “sea level” boils at 212*F, now for every 1 psi, the boiling point of straight water is raised 3*F. A factory radiator cap rated at 12-13 psi now creates a boiling point of 248*F- 251*F. A pressure cap of 41 psi now increases the boiling point to 335*F, Which’s 123*F higher than absolute pressure. The main purpose of a higher-pressure cap or why you would want to run one is simple, it doesn’t just raise the boiling point of the fluid but with higher pressure in the coolant system, the more “steam/micro air pockets” are compressed resulting in a greater coolant - metal contact. Effectively cooling the cylinder head & cylinder walls efficiently.

 It’s not advisable running an extremely high-pressure cap on a stock setup, most stock radiators have plastic plenums. You could effectively blow your radiator apart or a weak stock radiator hose.

 A high-pressure cap should only be used with upgraded aluminum radiators.

 AN fitted hose, hard-line & reinforced silicone hoses with quality claps must also be used to ensure no failure can occur.